Everything You’ll Need
| Tool/Material | Laminate Flooring | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Utility Knife | ✔ | Cuts underlayment and trims laminate edges |
| Tape Measure | ✔ | Measures room and plank dimensions |
| Straight Edge | ✔ | Makes straight cuts and aligns pieces |
| Pry Bar | ✔ | Removes baseboards or old flooring |
| Spacers | ✔ | Keeps expansion gaps by the walls |
| Tapping Block | ✔ | Taps planks together gently |
| Non-Marring Hammer | ✔ | Works with tapping block for tight fits |
| Laminate Cutter or Saw | ✔ | Cuts planks to fit |
| Knee Pads | ✔ | Protects knees during installation |
| Level | ✔ | Ensures subfloor and first row are even |
| Chalk Line | ✔ | Marks straight lines for alignment |
| Underlayment Roll | ✔ (if required) | Adds cushioning and reduces noise |
| Jigsaw or Oscillating Tool | ✔ | Cuts around pipes and door jambs |
Step 1: Choose a Layout Pattern
Before installing your laminate flooring, decide on the plank layout. Laminate might not have as many patterns as other floors, but your setup can still affect the room’s look and feel.
Here are some popular laminate flooring patterns:
Straight Lay Pattern (Most Common)
This is the simplest and most used method.
Planks are laid parallel to the longest wall or where the light enters. It offers a clean, classic appearance, suitable for most rooms.
Diagonal Pattern
This creates a more elegant appearance.
Planks are arranged at a 45-degree angle to the walls, making small rooms seem larger or adding interest to square spaces. It requires more cutting and extra material.
Random/Variable Stagger
Planks are staggered with varied lengths in each row.
This mimics natural hardwood and prevents repeating patterns or aligned seams.
Herringbone or Chevron (Advanced/Pro)
Certain laminate floors are designed for herringbone or chevron patterns.
These are stunning but require precise cuts and planning. Not all laminate types are suitable for these patterns.
Step 2: Prepare the Space
Remove Baseboards and Old Flooring
First, take away baseboards and old floors to have a clean area.
Use a pry bar to gently take off baseboards—be careful not to harm walls so the trim can be used again.
Use a utility knife to cut carpet into pieces and lift it up.
For other floors like vinyl or wood, follow the right steps to remove them.
Clean and Inspect the Subfloor
Sweep and vacuum well to clear dust and dirt.
Look for cracks or bumps. Use a leveling compound to fill low spots and sand down high ones. A flat subfloor is important for laminate floors.
Install Underlayment
Many laminate floors need underlayment unless they already have it attached.
Underlayment gives softness, cuts down noise, and helps fix small subfloor issues.
Roll it out on the subfloor, keeping edges close but not overlapping. Tape seams firmly.
✅ Pro Tip: For concrete floors, think about adding a moisture barrier under the underlayment.
Step 3: Choose an Installation Method
Laminate flooring is simple for DIY projects and mainly uses one easy way to install: Click-Lock (Floating Floor). It usually does not need glue or peel-and-stick methods.
Click-Lock (Floating Installation)
The Click-Lock system, also known as tongue-and-groove or interlocking, is the most common and simple option for laminate flooring. The planks click together, making a secure fit without nails or glue.
This method allows the floor to “float” over the subfloor, letting it adjust naturally with changes in temperature and humidity.
Key Advantages:
No adhesives required — easier cleanup and fewer materials.
DIY-friendly — great for beginners.
Versatile — works well over different types of subfloors, like concrete and plywood.
Installation Tips:
Leave a 1/4-inch expansion gap around the room’s edge with spacers. This prevents buckling as the floor changes.
Follow the manufacturer’s advice for plank alignment and clicking methods.
Use a tapping block and pull bar to make tight seams without damaging the plank edges.
Step 4: Lay the First Row
Cut the First Plank’s Short Edge
Begin by cutting off the first plank’s short edge to fit it against the wall. Use a utility knife for thin laminates or a circular saw or miter saw for thicker planks.
Place the First Plank 1/4 Inch from the Wall
Position the first plank near the wall, leaving a 1/4-inch gap. This gap is crucial because laminate flooring can change with temperature and humidity.
Use Spacers to Keep the Gap
Insert spacers between the wall and flooring to maintain the gap evenly while laying the floor. Place spacers around the room’s edge.
Stagger Joints for Better Stability
For the second row, cut the first plank at least 6 inches shorter than the first plank of the previous row. This staggers the joints, making the floor stronger and appear more natural.
Tip: Avoid aligning joints across rows — it can weaken the floor and look unrealistic.
Step 5: Cutting Planks to Fit
Straight Cuts — Score and Snap
For straight cuts (like trimming the end of a plank):
Use a utility knife to mark your cut line.
Snap the plank along the mark for a clean break (best for thinner laminates).
For thicker laminate, use a laminate cutter, circular saw, or miter saw for exact cuts.
Irregular Cuts — Around Corners and Obstacles
When cutting around door frames, corners, or odd shapes:
Use a jigsaw or oscillating multi-tool.
These tools make precise, curved, or angled cuts.
Cutting Around Pipes
Measure the diameter of the pipe and add 1 inch for expansion.
Drill a hole in the plank for the pipe.
Cut from the hole to the plank’s edge.
Seal around the pipe with a bead of silicone caulk to cover gaps and block moisture.
Tight Spaces — Under Door Jambs
Use a jamb saw to trim the bottom of the door frame.
This lets you slide the laminate plank underneath neatly.
Pro Tip: Always wear safety goggles and work slowly with power tools to avoid damaging the laminate.
| Cutting Task | Recommended Tool(s) | Technique |
|---|---|---|
| Straight cuts (length/width) | Utility knife (thin laminate) Laminate cutter or miter saw (standard) | Score and snap for thin laminate Use a saw for clean, straight cuts |
| Irregular cuts (corners, curves) | Jigsaw or oscillating multi-tool | Mark the shape, cut slowly following the line |
| Around pipes | Drill + Jigsaw or Hole saw | Drill a hole + cut a slit to the edge, leave ½” expansion gap |
| Tight spaces (door jambs) | Jamb saw (undercut saw) | Undercut the jamb to slide the plank underneath |
| Final fitting/trimming | Utility knife or laminate cutter | Trim small excess for a snug fit |
Step 6: Laying Subsequent Rows
Angle the Planks into Place
Begin a row by placing the plank’s tongue into the groove of the previous row. Lower gently until it clicks or fits snug.
Use a Tapping Block and Non-Marring Hammer
To ensure a tight fit, use a tapping block and a non-marring hammer.
Place the tapping block on the plank’s edge.
Tap gently to close gaps between planks.
Never use a standard hammer directly on the laminate—it may chip or harm the edges.
Maintain the Staggered Pattern
Keep end joints staggered by at least 6 inches for stability and a natural appearance.
Check Expansion Gaps
Use spacers by walls to maintain the 1/4-inch expansion gap during setup.
Step 7: Finishing the Installation
Install Transition Strips
Once all planks are in place, add transition strips at doorways and where laminate meets other floors. These strips:
Ensure a smooth, safe shift between floors.
Protect the edges of laminate flooring.
Use the manufacturer’s instructions for style and fitting.
Transitioning to Other Flooring
Pick the right transition type:
T-molding for floors at the same level.
Reducer strips for switching to lower surfaces like vinyl.
Fix strips to the subfloor—never to the laminate—leaving a 1/4-inch gap for expansion.
Reinstall Baseboards
Attach baseboards back to the wall, not the floor. This allows the laminate to expand and contract freely underneath.
Allow the Floor to Settle
Before placing furniture back or using the floor much:
Wait at least 48 hours for the laminate to adjust to the room’s temperature and humidity.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Laminate Flooring
Installing in Wet Areas
Laminate flooring isn’t good for very wet places like full bathrooms or laundry rooms. Water can get in and make it swell or warp.
Using a Hammer on Planks
Don’t hit laminate with a hammer. Use a tapping block or pull bar to secure planks without damaging edges.
Lining Up End Joints
Don’t line up or overlap end joints of planks in nearby rows. This weakens the floor and makes gaps. Stagger joints by at least 6 inches.
Skipping the Gap
Not leaving a 1/4-inch gap around the room’s edge can cause buckling as the floor changes with temperature and humidity.
Walking Too Soon
Let the laminate floor adjust for 48 hours after installation before walking on it or adding heavy furniture.
Tips for a Successful Laminate Flooring Installation
- Measure Right and Plan for Extra
Measure your room carefully and buy 10% more laminate flooring for mistakes and future repairs. Check Planks Before You Start
Inspect each plank for issues before using. Set aside damaged ones for a smooth finish.Wear Knee Pads for Comfort
Wear knee pads to protect your knees during long work. It makes work easier.Take Your Time and Be Careful
Move slowly with each task, from the first row to cutting planks. Rushing leads to mistakes.Keep the Right Expansion Gap
Leave a 1/4-inch gap around edges to prevent buckling as the laminate expands.
DIY vs. Professional Laminate Flooring Installation
Many homeowners pick laminate flooring because it’s easy for DIY projects. Whether you do it yourself or hire someone depends on how comfortable you are, your tools, and how complicated the job is.
DIY Installation
✅ Pros:
Save money on labor costs.
Work at your own pace.
Great for small, simple rooms.
❌ Cons:
Needs basic tools like saws.
Mistakes can cause warping.
Takes a lot of time, especially in big areas.
Professional Installation
✅ Pros:
Quick and accurate installation.
Experts handle difficult parts.
Usually comes with a warranty.
❌ Cons:
Costs more due to labor fees.
Generally, laminate flooring installation costs $4 to $12 per square foot depending on style and complexity. For more details, see our Laminate Flooring Cost Guide.
| Installation Method | Average Cost per Sq Ft | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| DIY Installation | $1.50 – $4 (materials only) | Save on labor Flexible schedule Good for small areas | Time-consuming Requires tools & skills Mistakes can be costly |
| Professional Installation | $4 – $12 (materials + labor) | Fast & precise Warranty often included Handles complex cuts & transitions | Higher upfront cost |
Do You Need Professional Help With Your Laminate Flooring Installation Project?
After learning how to install laminate flooring, you’re ready for a stylish, strong floor. If you need help, our expert team is available.
We handle everything — from subfloor preparation to plank alignment — so you can relax and enjoy perfect, lasting results. We’ll assist you in choosing the best laminate style and underlayment for your needs and budget.
Contact us today to schedule your free in-home consultation and see if we serve your area.
